BMW E46 3 Series DIY

to start make sure you have:
-flat head screwdriver (removing dustcover, metal clips & a bunch of other things)
-torque wrench
-ratchet wrench
-17mm socket (for wheel lugs)
-16mm socket (back of caliper housing)
-C-clamp (compress caliper)
-allen 7mm (slide screws on back of caliper)
-allen 6mm (rotor alignment nut)
-anti-seize for nuts
-grease (slide screws)
-jack (lift the car)
-small bungee (support caliper after removing it)
-hope fully you will have rubber gloves it can get messy and some orange-pumas soap for cleaning your hands after…

1- Start by jacking the car up just a bit so there is still pressure on the tire but not full pressure… then brake the wheel lugs loose, about 1/2 -1 turn is enough, continue jacking the car until the wheel is an inch of the ground. continue by unscrewing the lugs and removing the wheel…

2- using the flat head screwdriver against the inside edge of the rotor in the middle of the caliper spring (metal clip) release the two center clips and it should come off (some times it shoots off so be careful!)

3- remove the 2 dust-covers on the back of the caliper, the flat head screwdriver may help but you can probably just use your hands. inside this you will find two slide screws one under each dust-cover. these will need a 7mm allen to be removed (remember its backwards so left is right when loosening). when they are both out you can remove the caliper.
- if you are just doing pads only this is where you replace pads and sensor (drivers front & passenger rear) and work in reverse back to torquing the tire lugs back on in a star pattern.

4-you are continuing to replace your rotor, next you will remove the rotor alignment nut. this nut is found in between two of the wheel lug nut holes and has a 6mm allen head. you will need an additional allen here one that is small enough to fit inside the fins of the rotor so you can remove the 6mm allen without the rotor just spinning. when you go to loosen the 6mm allen the allen in the rotor fins should bind against the caliper housing and stop the rotor from spinning. finish removing the 6mm allen and then remove the allen stuck in the rotor fins.

5- next remove the caliper housing, this will be achieved by removing 2 16mm head bolts at the back of the housing (these can be on tight so be careful!). Once removed you can continue to remove the housing.

6- you should be able to remove the rotor now, if the rotor is still stuck the use of a rubber mallet on the rotor may help brake up rust buildup between the rotor and wheel hub causing it to stick, jiggle it around and it will eventually come off.

7- now work backwards and use lots of anti-seize!!!
- new rotor goes on and anti-seize on the hub before its on to make it easier for it to come of next time!

8- caliper housing goes back on (anti-seize on the bolts first) in this same step you can align the rotor and replace the 6mm alignment screw (same technique as before).

9- caliper needs to be able to hold the new pads so this is where you use the C-clamp to press the caliper drum back in to the caliper providing enough space for the thicker pads and new rotor. fit all together (use hi-temp grease behind the pads to help reduce brake noise) put in place and slide in your 2 cleaned and greased slide screws. tighten down with 7mm allen and once fully tightened replace the 2 dust-caps.

10- finally we can replace the spring in the front of the caliper (use the screwdriver again it can be tricky), and replace the wheel tightening the the 17mm lugs as best as possible.

11- lower the car just a bit so the tire touches the ground and tighten the 17mm lugs more. lower the car fully and using the torque wrench tighten the 17mm lugs to your desired torque.

all 4 wheels are similar with a slight difference in the back, you will have to make sure your e-brake is fully disengaged to remove the rear rotors and you may want to order replacement e-brake pads that require a few more steps but are still easy to replace, I inspected mine and did not need to replace them.